cavatelli with mussels, lillet and dill

This dish looked so refreshingly perfect on the pages of Food & Wine this month that I couldn't help but share it with you. The cavatelli (which look suspiciously like cannellini beans) and mussels are tossed with a touch of crème fraîche just before serving and then topped with a few thoughtful dill fronds. It suggests thoughts of warmer weather while appropriately maintaining a comfort dish status. And with grapefruit zest making an optional appearance, you can guarantee this will be an awfully impressive but conveniently easy dish to present to the table. For one or four. Oh, and mussels? They're the hottest deal of 2011.

Cavatelli with Mussels, Lillet and Dill

Recipe Courtesy of Kerry Heffernan for Food & Wine

Serves 4

2 pounds mussels, scrubbed

1/4 cup dry white wine

2 dill sprigs, plus 1 tablespoon chopped dill

1/4 cup Lillet or dry vermouth

3/4 cup crème fraîche

1 small shallot, minced

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon finely grated grapefruit zest (optional)

12 ounces fresh cavatelli

Freshly ground pepper

1. In a large saucepan, combine the mussels, wine, dill sprigs and 2 tablespoons of the Lillet and bring to a boil. Cover and steam until the mussels open, about 4 minutes. Transfer the mussels to a bowl and strain the juices into a medium bowl. Remove the mussels from their shells; discard any mussels that don't open. Rinse out the saucepan.

2. Return the juices to the saucepan and simmer until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche, shallot and the lemon and grapefruit zests.

3. Meanwhile, in a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until nearly al dente; drain. Add the pasta to the saucepan along with the remaining 2 tablespoons of Lillet. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thick and creamy, about 4 minutes. Stir in the mussels and chopped dill and season the pasta with pepper. Serve right away.

Wine Pairing: Briny, crisp Muscadet (2008 Michel Delhommeau Cuvée St. Vincent Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie)

fancy food

My initial reaction to "What should we do tonight?" was going to be something along the lines of "Uhh, I don't know. Maybe a burger? A beer? Something casual?" But I didn't even have the opportunity to mutter those silly words of apprehensive indecisiveness because the question was answered for me, with "I have duck breasts to cook."

A mere five minutes prior, I had been frantically tearing recipe after recipe out of the October issue of Food & Wine while re-organizing my recipe binder (yes, that's right) and had come across one for Duck Breasts with Crispy Potatoes and Frisée Salad. To be honest, I've never cooked duck. And not only have I never cooked it, but I rarely even eat it--and never think to order it when I'm at a restaurant. But that is not to say that I do not enjoy it. And when someone's offering to cook you duck breasts, you'd have to be an unsophisticated idiot to decline.

Not one for appearing unsophisticated or idiotic, I ran over to the produce market to grab my contributions to the meal. Yukon gold potatoes, some thyme, a head of frisée, and a round of goat's milk brie for snacking on during the 45 minute confit process the potatoes were about to go through.

That's right, we were confit'ing the potatoes. As soon as I carefully transfered the pan of potato slices with a garlic clove and a sprig of thyme covered, entirely, with oil, and glanced to my left to see duck breasts being scored and generously seasoned with salt and pepper, I couldn't help but kind of laugh to myself. "This is a pretty fancy little meal, no?" To which he couldn't help but laugh too and exclaimed "We're fancy!"

I'll tell you what's fancy, though. The 2008 Man O' War Syrah. I couldn't shut myself up about how unbelievably delicious it was. Deep, dark, and rich without being overwhelmingly fruity or sweet. It was far and away one of the best (if not the best) bottle of red I've ever come across.

Survey says? The recipe needs some tweaking--no two ways about it. The confit'ed potatoes, for as much fat and time they took, retained almost no flavor. And for a root vegetable to be fried in duck fat after confit'ing in garlic and thyme to have little to no flavor is almost frightening. Terrifying, really. The recipe also called for adding white truffle oil to the vinaigrette for the frisée. And while I'm down for white truffle oil to be drizzle on anything, the white wine vinegar kind of killed it. I suggested doing a dijon mustard-pomegranate vinaigrette next time. And saving the truffle oil for the potatoes, hot and crispy out of the oven.

And to continue the air of fanciness, the evening concluded with a friendly little push-up and leg lift competition which will not be discussed here any further. But I will tell you this: I'm reminded of it every time I laugh. Because laughing...hurts.

Recipe: Duck Breasts with Crispy Potatoes and Frisée Salad

make this. seriously. part two.

I clicked too soon. Wouldn't be the first time, I'm afraid. I didn't realize I wasn't done with Chef White just yet. Because as soon as I turned the page, I came across yet another no-brainer: crunchy vegetable salad with ricotta crostini.

Look, when the barometer is hitting the temperatures it has as of late matched up by nearly perverted humidity levels, I'm looking for something cool and quick and predominately vegetarian so as to allow more time for my head to hang out in the freezer. My mom is going to claim the rights to the ricotta crostini so let's just give it to her. She's realized (without White's guidance or approval) how down-right special a piece of charred bread can taste when smeared with a bit of ricotta and a thoughtful sprinkle of salt and freshly ground pepper. It perks up any salad, any night of the week.

This recipe will undoubtedly be making repeat appearances (on a weekly basis) in my kitchen.

Photo Courtesy of Stephanie Foley for Food & Wine

Crunchy Vegetable Salad with Ricotta Crostini

Serves 6

6 slices of rustic white bread

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing and drizzling

1 garlic clove, halved

3/4 cup fresh ricotta

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon dijon mustard

6 large radishes, thinly sliced

1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced

1/2 pound asparagus, thinly sliced on the bias

1 large carrot, finely julienned

1/2 small seedless cucumber, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 head of Boston lettuce, torn into bite-size pieces 2 tablespoons shredded basil leaves

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped taragon

1. Preheat the broiler (I'm sorry, but that's not happening in my tiny kitchen at this point in the season. Either utilize the grill pan or throw the bread in the toaster until well toasted, nearly charred). Brush the bread with olive oil and place on a baking sheet. Broil 4 inches from heat for about 1 minute per side, until golden. Lightly rub the cut sides of the garlic over the toasts and spread with the ricotta. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil.

2. In a large bowl, whisk the white balsamic vinegar with the Dijon mustard and the 1/4 cup of olive oil; season with salt and black pepper. Add the radishes, fennel, asparagus, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, basil, and tarragon and toss gently to coat. Serve the salad right away with the crostini.

Click here for the printable version of the recipe.

make this. seriously.

How do I know you'll make this? Because this recipe comes straight from the genius that is Michael White of Marea, Alto, and Convivio (by ways of Food & Wine, of course). Here, the approachable and rustic deliciousness of Italian cuisine is highlighted simply and beautifully. Invite someone over for dinner and flat out shazam them with this impressive yet totally accessible recipe. Make the caponata (might I suggest adding some golden raisins?) a day or two ahead of time (it keeps for 3 days) and you're steamrolling to an end zone touchdown dance.

If you're assuming I'm implying you'll be "scoring" after serving this meal, the answer is, well, err, I like don't want to be awkward and stuff, but, like yeah, I guess, yes. The answer is yes. Don't make me say it again. Or louder. Ok?

Photo courtesy of Stephanie Foley for Food & Wine

grilled fish with artichoke caponata

makes 6 servings

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for rubbing

4 tender celery ribs, diced (1 cup)

1 onion, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1/2 cup prepared tomato sauce

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

1/2 pound marinated artichoke hearts, drained and chopped

1/2 cup pitted green olives, chopped

1/4 cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons small capers, drained

kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons shredded basil

six 7-ounce mahimahi fillets

1. In a large deep skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil until shimmering. Add the celery, onion, and garlic and cook over moderate heat until just softened, 4 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, wine, vinegar, artichokes, olives, pine nuts, sugar, and capers and season with salt and pepper. Simmer until the vegetables are tender and the liquid is reduced, 8 minutes. Stir in the basil and let cool.

2. Light a grill or preheat a grill pan. Rub the fish with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat until cooked through, about 9 minutes. Transfer the fish to plates, top with the caponata and serve.

Make ahead: The artichoke caponata can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

Wine: Crisp, ripe Italian white: 2008 Pieropan Soave

Click here for the printable version of the recipe.