winter warmth

Photo courtesy The New York Times

This week's Dining Section of the New York Times, features a Mark Bittman recipe for a citrus salad. A combination of seasonally delicious oranges and grapefruits dressed with shaved red onion, a light drizzle of olive oil, salt and pepper. I highly suggest adding some herbage to this mix; fresh mint or basil would be gorgeous. The perfect ying to the citrus's yang. Shaved fennel would also be a killer attribute. Regardless of which route you take, this bright, slightly sweet salad will indefinitely add some happiness and warmth to help sooth those winter doldrums. Serve it alongside your favorite piece of fish (or fish tacos, mmm) close your eyes, have a drink, and you'll think you've skipped off to some sort of tropical vacation as the sound of the honking horns and crazy man playing the recorder outside your window magically begin to disappear.

Until the garbage truck rolls by.

In which case, enjoy that second and third Corona with lime. You've earned it.

sam sifton update

Korean Beef Bulgogi BBQ made by yours truly, photographed by Aimee Herring

Reading through Sam Sifton's latest review of Madangsui, a Korean BBQ joint, I noticed something. After an awfully wet and depressing start to my day, I found myself smiling. From beginning to end. Because thus far? I totally dig Sam Sifton.

There's a certain relevancy in his writing style and restaurant choices. He's approachable, witty, passionate. All qualities that I hope to convey in my writing as well and that Sifton delivers so seemingly effortlessly. He's hip without having to try too hard and the fact that he saw the value in reviewing a Korean BBQ joint that lacks any and all glitz or glamour makes him that much more credible in my book. I mean, it could also be credited to my affinity for Korean BBQ and all its incarnations but ehh, whatever. As always, I'm already looking forward to next week's review. You should be too.

frank bruni's dinner guests

This week in the Times, Frank Bruni offers a look inside what it was like to be one of his lucky (or maybe not so lucky) dinner companions during his countless review sessions. But what was really interesting about this piece was how much insight it offered on the subject of human nature and how people's dining habits are very closely correlated to their personalities and outlooks.

"People are as strange about eating as they are about love. They want what they want."

Fact.

the sole meunière is ready for it's close up

Nora Ephron, Director and Screenplay writer of Julie & Julia, had a clear focus when diving into this project: the food. A well seasoned cook herself, Ephron took it upon herself to test every single recipe (minus one) seen in the film until each one was perfected. If this movie was going to serve any justice to Julia Child, the viewers had to be swooned, romanced by the food in the way that Julia was. Her Sole Meunière experience was one of the most defining moments in her life (MUST READ: My Life in France by Julia Child). It was what opened her eyes to the fulfilling and sensual world of food and the culinary arts. And while this may not seem like a terribly daunting task for Ephron at first glance, you try cooking each dish to camera-ready perfection, take after take after take, with limited resources. So this week, the New York Times went behind the scenes with Ephron to explore the food stylist challenges faced in the film. And don't worry. There was no application of sunless-tanner to any fish or foe to achieve "optimal brownness." Yes, that actually happens and no, I don't want to talk about it.

101 salad ideas

The New York Times Dining section this week featured a spread on 101 Summer Salads to help you beat the heat in the kitchen. And since I can't even fathom putting a pot of water on the stove to boil at this point in the season, these recipe ideas are fabulously received on my end. So before you sweat over a hot pot and think pasta, let's rethink the salad.

Cool, refreshing, endless seasonal possibilities, and a heck of a lot better for you than any other naughty ideas (take out, mac 'n cheese, yada, yada, yada) running through your head. And the best part? No waiting around time here. Chop things up, throw 'em in a bowl, give it a gentle toss and you're ready to munch.

A couple of stand-outs?

12. Combine sliced fennel and prune plums; serve with vinaigrette spiked with minced ginger. Nice pairing.

13. A red salad: Combine tomato wedges with halved strawberries, basil leaves, shaved Parmesan and balsamic vinegar.

14. A classic Moroccan thing: Thinly slice carrots, or grate or shred them (the food processor makes quick work of this). Toss with toasted cumin seeds, olive oil, lemon juice and cilantro. Raisins are good in here, too. There is no better use of raw carrots.

16. Slice fennel and crisp apple about the same thickness (your choice). Combine, then dress with mustardy vinaigrette and chopped parsley. Come fall, this will be even better.

26. Combine mushroom caps and thinly sliced red onions with olive oil; broil gently until tender and browned. Toss with a lot of chopped fresh parsley or basil (or both) and a simple vinaigrette. Some chopped escarole, arugula or watercress is good, too.

31. Roast beets whole (or buy them precooked), then slice or cube and toss with a little chopped garlic (or a lot of roasted garlic), toasted walnuts, orange juice and olive oil.

38. Cube watermelon; combine with roughly chopped mint, crumbled feta, sliced red onion and chopped Kalamata olives. Dress lightly with olive oil and lemon juice. Despite saltiness of feta and olives, this may need salt.

43. Grate raw beets (use the food processor to avoid ruining everything within spattering distance) and toss with watercress or arugula. Top with sherry vinaigrette and a little goat cheese. Especially obvious, perhaps, but also especially popular.

44. Make a crisp grilled cheese sandwich, with good bread and not too much good cheese. Let it cool, then cut into croutons. Put them on anything, but especially tomato and basil salad. This you will do forever.

54. Slice roasted red peppers (if you must use canned, try to find piquillos) and fresh mozzarella. Toss with cooked white beans, olive oil, red wine vinegar, a chopped shallot and fresh rosemary or parsley.

55. Mix watercress with chopped smoked salmon, avocado, red onion and capers. Make a vinaigrette with olive oil, sherry vinegar and mustard powder.

69. Stir-fry small or chopped shrimp in olive or peanut oil with lots of ginger; while still warm, combine with tomato wedges, chopped romaine, cilantro, scallions and lots of lime juice. Good in pita.

81. Soak sliced prune plums or figs in balsamic vinegar for a few minutes, then add olive oil, chopped celery and red onion, shreds of roasted or grilled chicken, chopped fresh marjoram or oregano and chopped almonds. Serve on top of or toss with greens. So good.