Wednesday, March 18, 2009


So Frank Bruni just gave Michael Psilakis's Kefi a one-star review. Hmph. Psilkais is, of course, the mastermind behind Anthos and Mia Dona and Kefi was his more approachable, less expensive version of Greek cuisine that was relocated to a new home on the Upper West Side. We all know my love, adoration, and respect towards Anthos (which Bruni has also shared) which is why I am slightly saddened and selfishly appreciative of his review (read: no long post review waits).

I do not doubt nor question Bruni's authority and opinion on the place but I will undoubtedly be critiquing Kefi on my own. Not only is it the kind of food I love and often crave but it's created and imagined by a chef I have a huge amount of respect (ahem, crush) for.

The Flat Pasta with Pulled Braised Rabbit and Graviera Cheese ($11.95), the Braised Lamb Shank with Orzo ($15.95), and the Pork Souvlaki with Tzatziki and Pita Bread ($13.95) all spark my interest for obvious reasons. Straightforward? Yes. But there's always something to be said about classic dishes done impeccably well by a reliable, well-seasoned, and inventive Chef Psilakis.

Kefi might be a bit of trek uptown but it's one I'll gladly take. One star, no star, or five.

505 Columbus Ave. (b/w 84th and 85th streets)

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